Tag Archives: studio

Always take the feather with you

When we sat down to talk about the poster for World War I musical The White Feather (coming to the Union in September), we knew three things.

It was going to have a feather in it.  It was going to be shot in studio.  And we were going to shoot it for real.

Well, sometimes photoshoots evolve as they go on.

As star Abigail Matthews looked gamefully morose-but-content-but-triumphant — which, in case it’s not obvious, isn’t the easiest look to pull off — we tried holding a feather in front of her on a wire, having her throw feathers at herself and flinging feathers at her via a wind machine.  But the feathers just wouldn’t go where we needed them and it all risked looking like a comedic farce or — the horror — a little bit arty.

I’m a great believer in doing things practically when you can.  But, when you can’t, there’s always computer magic.

So what we ended up doing was showering feathers from the ceiling and taking what we’d intended — Abigail staring at a single feather — and turning it into a feather flock.

All against the backdrop of two skies from opposite sides of the world: Te Anau in New Zealand and the Pointe du Grouin in Brittany.

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On pomegranates

One from a while back.

We had an extraordinary vintage dress, a madly beautiful and moderately frightening Philip Treacy mask, a wonderful model and some stuffed birds.  And we needed to tie them all together.

And the solution my favourite occasional collaborator for this kind of thing — Siwan Hill — came up with to achieve this was pomegranates.

The Greek myth of Persephone centres on a girl stolen from her mum and swept down to the underworld by Hades (it varies with every telling).  There, she lived in darkness until her mum found her and tried to get her out.

Hades agreed to give her back, what with her being a minor and that being a bit icky and all.

But Hades, ever the trickster, also gave the poor girl the mythological equivalent of a trail mix bar for the journey home, whereupon Persephone, never having been the sharpest knife in the drawer, wolfed down some pomegranate seeds.  And thus became doomed for ever to commute between the basement and the penthouse or, if you prefer, between summer and winter.

We’ll give the Greeks a C for plot, but anyway.

 

Creative direction, hair and makeup: Siwan Hill

Photography: Scott Rylander (obviously)

Model: Jenny Maxwell of band Strange Fruit

Dress and jacket designed by Joanne Fleming

Philip Treacy custom-made mask and props by kind courtesy of Amaury Blow

Additional art direction: Laura Oaten

Assistant: Bernard Coughlan

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The Fantastic Mr Foster

I’m lucky enough to have many lovely, lovely clients, but I count Philip Foster among my favourites for two reasons.  First, I’ve worked with him since pretty much the first day I set out as a photographer.  Second, because in a business full of inspiring personalities he stands out as a very inspiring man.

A large number of people who’ve worked in theatre or music for any length of time will have come across Philip because he wears about a thousand hats, among them producer, director, agent, vocal coach and manager.

Those many hats have led to a need for a variety of different portraits down the years, of which some of my favourites below.

Assistant for rooftop shoot: Jiann Chyuan Ho.

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Ello Princess

For a while, now, I’ve been searching for a chance to do some theatre advertising shots using a really, really classic look that doesn’t get seen much beyond magazine editorials these days because it’s a bit retro.

So when I was asked to shoot the publicity for Gilbert and Sullivan’s seldom-seen Princess Ida at the Finborough, and was told that all I had to work with was a headless and limbless torso and a big room, I jumped at the chance.

Simon Butteriss and Bridget Costello were my wonderfully in-character victims.

The show begins previews on 24 March.

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Don’t squash Louisa!

This one’s from a couple of years ago.

I was asked to shoot the poster image for A Broken Rose at the Cockpit Theatre with a very specific brief in mind.

The play was about a teenage girl who’d drawn herself so deep into her imagination to deal with her childhood that she could no longer see where reality ended and dreams began, with disastrous consequences.

And to advertise it, the producers wanted a classic Disney-type image: the wonderment of opening a storybook to have a fantasy world of light and colour pour out before your eyes.  But with a riff, in that the background to it all needed not to be Christmas trees and tinsel but something a bit “off”.

The graphic designer would deal with the sparks and whatever that needed to come out of the book.  I needed to come up with the rest.

Okeydoke, easy enough.  Light up her face with light coming out of a book.  How hard could it be to fake that?

Well, it turned out, after extensive testing on the cheapest model I know (namely, me), that getting the basic lighting right for what we wanted to do was fairly straightforward (if you discount the sheer number and variety of lights involved in what looks like a simple shot).

But on the book I was asking the wrong question.  Because faking light coming out of a book is very hard.  In fact, I suspect it’s impossible.

Rather easier, though, is not faking it.  And actually making the book light up.

Enter the largest book you have ever seen (so big it took two people to move it into the right position), a Stanley knife to gouge an enormous hole through the middle of it to stick a flash in, and the delightful and uncomplaining star of EastEndersThe Bill and loads more besides, Louisa Lytton, on whose poor knees the monster had to sit.

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The Road to Serfdom

So, frequent collaborator, makeup artist and all-round creative whirlwind, Siwan Hill, called me up.

“I need to do some effects,” she said.  “What can we do with effects?”

“Effects?”

“You know, blood, gore, carnage, that sort of thing.”

“I dunno,” I said, “but I’d quite like to do the evolution of man… You know, hunchback becomes homo erectus without the full-frontal nudity.”

“Okaaaaay…”

And thus, many emails later, we decided to revisit the recession and make a gentle dig at Hayek’s Road to Serfdom by watching what happens when capitalism reaches its logical conclusion and switches into reverse.

And we did this by covering our models in mustard.

Fun fact: the most difficult prop to procure was the right kind of paper bag.

Concept: Siwan Hill and Scott Rylander

Makeup and styling: Siwan Hill

Models: Katerina Jugati and Paul Hughes

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Zombies wear Gap

A series over a year in the making, a while back I realised I’d fallen into the trap many photographers end up in in the early years after they turn pro.

I’d become so het up about things like correct framing, exposure, focus, lighting and all the other technical titbits that I was starting to lose sight of the madness that got me into this in the first place; of shooting things at random just to see what happened.

So I recruited some improbably willing models (improbable given that my pitch was: “I want to make you look ill”) who gamely stepped in front of the lens for what I like to call my raw series.

Which was all about making people look slightly brain dead and/or stoned.

Big thank yous go to Andrew, Angela, Antonio, Emma, Luke and Martin for being bonkers on cue.

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Masquerade

It’s not often you get to do your thing and go as wild as you want (within reason) on a commercial shoot.

Cycling pollution mask makers, Respro, wanted to introduce their new Skins range with a beauty shot-type image  to emphasise that, just because something’s useful, doesn’t mean it can’t be as individualistic as any other piece of clothing.

Using some hand-decorated masks, we started with the core beauty shot — deep reds, golden skin and all.

And then we got a bit nuttier…

Makeup: Siwan Hill

Hair and styling: Harry Cole

Model: Sydney

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